Abstract

The market for natural makeup has been substantially increasing, primarily because many consumers believe that natural makeup is healthier and higher quality than unnatural makeup. However, perceived health hazards of unnatural makeup have been debunked, and, while there is no evidence disproving the perceived quality superiority of natural makeup, the manipulability of chemical ingredients suggests that unnatural makeup would be superior. Therefore, the question arises as to whether consumers choose natural makeup not because it is actually superior in quality, but because society has led them to believe it is healthier and more effective. A blind consumption test involving four popular brands of lip gloss - two natural and two unnatural - was conducted to determine whether consumers actually prefer their self-identified favorite makeup brands and how influence from the natural product movement affects how closely their self-identified preferences match their blind consumption preferences. Ultimately, it was found that consumers’ self-identified preferences rarely matched their preferences under blind consumption conditions, regardless of how influenced they were by the natural product movement. Thus, the results suggest that makeup consumers make decisions predominantly based on their emotional perceptions of certain brands, as opposed to actual sensed quality differences between makeup products; and, while the natural product movement may be one factor that affects consumers’ perceptions of makeup brands, it is by no means a sole or primary influence in forming consumer opinions.

Monday, December 12, 2016

Plan of Action: Logistics of the Study and Analyzing the Data

12/12/2016

I have confirmed with Pam McCasland, an esthetician and owner of Skin Apeel Beauty Bar in Fountain Hills, that she can connect me with her clients as potential participants and that I can use Skin Apeel Beauty Bar as the location where I will conduct my study. In terms of figuring out specifically how to contact her clients and the available times to conduct the study, I will be meeting with her in early January. Ideally, I would like to conduct my study within the first or second week of February right after the second trimester ends, and I want to contact Pam's clientele with the consent form as soon as possible to ensure that I have enough participants secured.

If, for some reason, I do not get at least 50 participants from Pam's clientele, my mom also has a lot of contacts at CopperWynd Resort & Club who would be willing to participate in the study. Also worth noting, I am going to try my best to get participants of different ages, although many may end up being slightly older (~40-70), as that is the most common demographic in Fountain Hills and at these locations.  

As for how I will analyze the data I obtain from the blind consumption test and the exit survey, I will be comparing the responses of each participant between the two forms (participants will write their participant number on each form so that responses will remain anonymous but I will be able to pair each participant's blind consumption ranking sheet to her exit survey). While I am not 100% certain of the specific criteria for determining whether or not a participant bases her choice on emotional or sensory responses, the closer the rankings are between the blind consumption and exit survey forms, the more likely the participant's makeup choices are based on sensory, as opposed to just emotional, responses to the products. Likely, for each participant, I will add up the category-specific 1-9 rankings to create a final score for each lip gloss on the blind consumption form. Then, I will note the order in which the participant preferred each product by ordering the lip glosses from highest ranked to lowest ranked. I will repeat the process for the exit survey, and I will make note if the order changed or remained the same. Regarding the general questions I include at the end of my exit survey asking participants to indicate whether they prefer to buy natural or unnatural makeup, I will take note of whether each participant's response to those questions aligns with their highest ranked choices in the blind consumption test (i.e. I will check whether or not those who said they prefer natural makeup actually liked Burt's Bees or Bare Escentuals most in the blind consumption test). Finally, I will need to somehow qualitatively analyze participant commentary in each of the ranking sections on both the blind consumption test form and the exit survey to search for trends (i.e. if a lot of participants indicate that they would expect Bare Escentuals lip gloss to be shiniest because it is a mineral makeup, I should take note of that. Or, if on the exit survey, a participant comments that she buys natural makeup because it is healthier for the skin, I should take note of that as an emotional reason to buy the product, as opposed to a sensory one).

I feel like I have a clear general idea of what I need to do to analyze my results, but in terms of formulating a clear-cut method of analysis, especially for the quantitative rankings, I could definitely use some advice!

(608)






Monday, November 21, 2016

Making the Method

11/21/2016

While writing my lit review, I justified using a blind consumption test in order to determine whether consumers make decisions between natural and unnatural makeup primarily based off of sensory or emotional distinctions between the products. After analyzing 4 blind consumption tests for my methods assignment, I gained a much better understanding for the trends relevant to the method.

I feel more confident about collecting participants and addressing ethical concerns. Originally, I was scared that I would not be able to collect a large enough sample size to produce meaningful results. However, the blind consumption tests I analyzed typically collected between 50 and 120 participants, which seems like a number I could reasonably obtain. It was also common that participants were selected from one organization or geographic area, so, even if I am only able to obtain participants through one contact, my results will still be meaningful (although I will obviously admit the limitations of only using test subjects from one area). However, something that still remains unclear to me is where I should start/reach out in order to collect participants, and I will need to research local contacts soon. Also, I will need to find a location where I can conduct my experiment. Ideally, all testing would be done in the same room to maintain consistency in basic environmental factors such as lighting and temperature.

As for potential ethical concerns, there was not too much to address beyond maintaining participant anonymity and ensuring that participants were aware of all ingredients present in the products being tested in order to address potential allergy issues. Like I originally expected, I will need to have participants sign a consent form informing them of all the ingredients in the makeups being tested.

As far as what I learned about increasing validity, I will need to ensure that the order the 4 makeup brands are tested in is randomly assigned for each participant, and I will need to provide makeup wipe removers for each participant to adequately remove the lipstick before they test the next lipstick sample. This way, the results will be less affected by potential differences in participant product rankings due to sampling the lipsticks in a different order (e.g. differences due to residue left behind by the previous sample, differences due to participants comparing samples to the previous ones).

The methods assignment also gave me examples of how participant rankings can be recorded. Most blind consumption tests involved participants assigning a number 1-9 (with 1 being "dislike extremely" and 9 being "like extremely") to different aspects of products. I will have my participants rank each lipstick sample using this scale for lipstick factors such as color quality and texture (I will need to find a source that specifically articulates the ideal aspects of a lipstick and make sure that I include all the main factors consumers are looking for).

To see whether or not participant rankings in the blind study match their perceptions of the brands and unnatural versus natural makeup, I will use an exit survey asking participants to rank the individual makeup brands using the same 1-9 scale and questions present in the blind consumption test. Then, I will include a question asking them which lipstick they would expect to be higher quality in terms of the specific lipstick aspects, lipstick made from natural ingredients or that made from unnatural ingredients. If the answers in the exit survey match those in the consumption test, then consumers likely choose makeup based on both sensory and emotional responses to the makeup products. However, if the answers do not match closely, then consumers are likely making decisions based primarily on emotional perceptions of the brands and natural v. unnatural makeup.

Overall, I feel confident in my type of method and the basics for how to conduct it (e.g. addressing ethical and validity concerns, formulating the ranking system and exit survey). It is the logistics associated with collecting participants and finding a location/time to conduct the experiment that I am still somewhat unsure about, but I will be sure to do research and reach out for help regarding such concerns.

(687)


Sunday, November 13, 2016

One Trimester Down, Two to Go

11/13/2016

We have all submitted a polished version of our lit reviews, a task that seemed daunting a month ago, and now it is time to dive into writing our methodology section. Before I reset and begin to tackle this new task, however, I will take a moment and reflect on what I have accomplished thus far and where I still need to put in a lot of thought going forward.

I feel as though I put together a solid lit review that clearly outlines a gap in our knowledge regarding the natural versus unnatural makeup market: we don't know whether or not the shift in demand toward natural makeup is due primarily to unwarranted societal influence or an actual quality superiority in natural makeup products. My lit review also put me a little bit further ahead in the game because, to successfully arrive at my research question, I had to justify the method I am using (blind consumption) and the makeup brands I am testing within the lit review itself.

Nevertheless, while I feel confident with my lit review, I feel a little uneasy going forward into the methods section, as I have one of the more complicated methods (mine actually involves people). What concerns me most is how I am going to select a sample size that is appropriate and doesn't seem contrived but is still feasible given my resources (e.g. how much money I can spend on makeup samples, how many people I could actually get to participate). I am afraid that the viability of my results may be damaged by a small sample size or a biased sample (i.e. selecting people from only one group/place).

As far as the ethics section that is required for a method involving people, I imagine that I will need to formulate some sort of waiver for participants, perhaps one that lists all the ingredients that are in the makeups they will be testing. This way, if a participant feels uncomfortable applying a certain ingredient or has a certain allergy, they can choose not to participate and do not face the risk of applying completely unknown products to their skin (although they will still not know the exact brands they are using). There is probably a lot more I will need to consider as far as ethics goes, but I figure that I will learn more throughout this upcoming week analyzing more blind consumption methodology.

Overall, I feel as if I have the basics down regarding what I need to accomplish (all outlined in my lit review). It's the logistics regarding how I am going to carry out my research that is currently concerning me. However, I am still optimistic going forward, and I believe looking more into blind consumption methodology with the methods assignment may help me get a better idea for ideal sample size and selecting participants.

(478)

Sunday, October 2, 2016

The Yeah!, the Meh, and the Bleh

Week 8 (09/26-10/02)

With October already here (seriously, where is senior year going?!) and the lit review due date only 3 weeks away, we have all spent the last week working hard to create quality outlines from our annotated bibliographies and put all the pieces of our research together. For this week's post, I will be outlining the assured, the neutral, and the intimidating feelings I have been having:

1. The Yeah!: I am still super excited about my methodology, and I am happy that I have my brands (MAC, L'oreal, Bare Escentuals, and Burt's Bees) and the type of makeup I am testing (lipstick!) down. I am personally familiar with each of these brands, so I am really interested in learning what consumers actually think of each, both in terms of their current perceptions of the brands and their actual rankings during blind testing. Each week, the picture of my actual research is becoming more and more clear, and I am becoming more and more enthusiastic about conducting my study. :)

2. The Meh: I know that I have all (or at least the vast majority) of the pieces I need to put together my line of reasoning. Still, it has been a little bit tedious stringing everything together and creating quality transitions. I also need to find a couple more sources justifying the use of the unnatural makeup brands I chose for my study, MAC and L'oreal. While I feel confident that all of these things are doable, I am not particularly excited about them. (However, I know that they are necessary for the full project, which I am excited about, so I will put in a quality effort for the sake of the big picture.)

3. The Bleh: As always when writing complex arguments, I have a nagging feeling that I am missing a link and will lose the reader somewhere, or that my logic is circular, or that there is just some major flaw that I am not seeing because I am overly familiar with my argument. I am especially concerned with the portion of my argument that transitions from explaining my methodology into justifying the use of my 4 brands. I try to argue that popularity and, for the two natural brands, the general consumer understanding that the ingredients are natural are the most important factors, but I don't know if I have justified it enough, and I don't know of any source that could help me with the transition.

(412)


Monday, September 26, 2016

The 550-Word Research Question (Including Justification)

Week 7 (09/19-09/25)

Research Question: "Do consumers who prefer the natural makeup brands Burt's Bees and Bare Escentuals over the unnatural brands L'oreal and Clinique do so due to actual sensed quality superiority of the natural brands or due to emotional perceptions of the natural brand names themselves?"

Scope: My scope is narrowed down by researching only 4 brands of makeup, and I will only be studying lipstick (which I will justify in the methodology section of my paper), so the type of makeup I am researching is limited.

Key terms:

  • Natural Makeup Brands: Makeup consisting of ingredients that are not synthetically created in a lab. 
  • Unnatural Makeup Brands: Makeup that contains ingredients, sometimes called chemical additives,  that are synthetically created in a lab.
  • "Actual sensed quality superiority": During consumption, actually sensing the difference between the brands and preferring one over another
  • "Emotional perceptions of brand names": mental associations that consumers make with certain brands and products (e.g. consumers perceive natural ingredients to be healthier than unnatural ones)


Variables: The criteria by which the participants of my study will be ranking the lipsticks will be based off of color quality, texture/consistency, and lasting ability. I will also ask participants to report any irritability, as one of the current arguments for natural ingredients is that they are less harsh on the skin.

Researchability: The method I plan on using, comparing the rankings of the makeups in blind consumption trials with the rankings of the makeups in trials where consumers see the brand names, was used in a different context by researchers Maison, Greenwald, and Bruin. If the results of both the blind and the normal study are similar, then it is likely that consumers prefer their makeup brands based on actual sensed quality superiority, but if they are different, then it is likely consumers are making choices based off of brand name perceptions, as opposed to actual sensed quality differences between brands.

Gap: There is a debate as to whether or not the rise in size and popularity of the natural makeup market is due to natural ingredients actually making higher quality products. While there are claims that natural ingredients provide benefits such as more brilliant colors, better textures for the skin, and less irritability, there are also studies showing the great range and flexibility of unnatural ingredients, which can be altered in order to achieve optimal textures and effects. I have not found any other research using a blind consumption study to compare consumer reactions to natural and unnatural makeup brands, and such research would be useful to reveal whether or not consumers sense a quality difference between natural and unnatural makeups, and, if so, which they prefer of the two.

Significance: Not only will my study address the questionable quality difference between natural and unnatural makeup, but it will reveal the extent to which consumers are influenced by perceptions of natural ingredients and brands in the cosmetic market. For example, if consumers claim to prefer natural brands but then prefer unnatural makeup in the blind consumption study, the results would indicate that consumers are highly influenced by societal pushes to consume natural products. My results will likely also beg questions outside of the makeup industry altogether. Applying my research to different industries can answer to what extent consumers make choices based on emotional perceptions versus actual sensed quality differences.

(557)

Sunday, September 18, 2016

Lit Review Outline

Week 6 (09/12-09/18)

Lit Review Outline

Opening Paragraph Significance
The cosmetic industry makes up a huge global market and is rapidly expanding as standard of living improves in countries around the world. Specifically within the cosmetic industry, consumer demand for natural makeup has increased. (Source: Rajput discusses general makeup market trends from 2014 to 2016, and predicts trends through 2022 in a market research report).

Overall Summary → The increase in consumption of natural makeup has occurred in tandem with both misleading health studies publicized by various cancer/health organizations and producer marketing strategies that potentially overstate the quality/benefits of natural makeup. Since consumers have been shown to buy natural/organic products primarily because they perceive them to have certain health benefits and higher quality/effectiveness, consumers may be tending toward natural makeup products not based on their actual quality, but a false perception of superiority due to misleading information. One of the primary ways through which consumers identify and differentiate products is brand names. Consumers develop brand perceptions and loyalty based on either emotional distinctions or actual sensual distinctions between brands. Emotional distinctions involve choosing brands because of what consumers believe about the product, which would align with consumers choosing makeup because of perceived, but false, health and quality superiority. Sensual distinctions involve choosing brands based off of quality differences actually felt during consumption, which would be the case if consumers were choosing natural makeup because of actual noticed quality superiority. If consumers have difficulty distinguishing between brands during blind consumption, or favor a different brand than their identified favorite brand, it is likely that they have made emotional distinctions between brands, as opposed to actual sensual ones. Therefore, through blind testing, one can answer questions about the makeup industry by determining whether consumers actually detect superior quality in natural makeups.



  • Premise 1: Consumers are influenced by a variety of factors when buying a product, primarily by societal influences and their own personal beliefs regarding how the product will affect them.
    • Sources: Crane explains that consumers buy organic/natural products primarily because they believe that they are beneficial for their health or perceive them as higher quality. Vietoris et al. also reviewed the motivations for consumers buying more organic food products and found that consumption reasoning was mostly based on perceived health benefits.
  • Premise 2: Misleading health studies concerning chemical additives have permeated throughout the makeup market.
    • Sources: Ross and Juhasz & Marmur both cite a multitude CDC, FDA, and CIR studies that have shown chemical additives in makeup to have negative health effects. They explain that various cancer and health organizations have cautioned consumers on the use of unnatural cosmetics on the basis of animal studies that test the chemical additives in much larger concentrations than are actually found in cosmetics. Palliser provides an example of a less academic source (a elementary school science teacher journal) that uses hypothetical language and misrepresentative studies to caution consumers away from unnatural additives in cosmetics.
  • Premise 1 + Premise 2 → Conclusion 1: Consumers may be turning towards natural makeup products due to fears about how unnatural makeup affects their health.
  • Premise 3: The rise in green consumerism in the late 1990s and early 2000s influenced companies to use natural/organic ingredients and to emphasize the quality/effectiveness of these ingredients to expand their consumer base.
    • Sources: Todd explains the process above in an academic journal entry. Geraghty, in a magazine article, provides quotes from CEO's of current natural makeup companies preaching the greater effectiveness of makeup products in terms of color, texture, and reaction with the skin.
  • Premise 4: Use of synthetic chemical ingredients in cosmetics allows for flexibility in the creation of different textures and effects suitable to different consumer demands. The ability to manipulate chemical compounds may actually give unnatural makeup an advantage over natural makeup. 
    • Source: van Reeth discusses how different types of silicone (a chemical additive) makeups can be made to create different textures and cater to different aspects of consumer demand.
  • Premise 1 + Premise 3 + Premise 4 → Conclusion 2: Consumers may be tending towards natural products based on marketing techniques exaggerating the effectiveness/quality of natural ingredients over unnatural ingredients.
  • Conclusion 2 + Conclusion 2 = Conclusion 3: Considering the misleading health information and the potentially exaggerated quality benefits of natural makeup, consumers that prefer to buy natural makeup may do so based on a false perceptions of natural makeup superiority. 
  • Premise 5: One of the primary ways through which consumers identify and differentiate products is brand names.
    • Sources: Thomas et al. found that consumers responded faster to brand-name items than no-name products when products were paired with positive and negative words, suggesting that consumers tend to associate certain product qualities with brand name items. Pettek & Ruzzier explain how business marketing strategies help build up their brand identity and influence how consumers perceive the brand. 
  • Premise 6: Consumers develop brand perceptions and loyalty based on either emotional distinctions or actual sensual distinctions between brands (each distinction defined in summary section above). If consumers have difficulty distinguishing between brands during blind consumption, or favor a different brand than their identified favorite brand, it is likely that they have made emotional distinctions between brands, as opposed to actual sensual ones.
    • Source: Maison, Greenwald, and Bruin conducted blind testing on different brand-name products. 
  • Premise 5 + Premise 6 + Conclusion 3 = Conclusion 4: Through blind testing, one can answer questions about the makeup industry by determining whether consumers actually detect superior quality in natural makeups.



  • Research Question: “In the absence of marketing and branding during blind consumption, do consumers tend to prefer natural makeup products over unnatural ones?”



    What I am missing/need advice on: At the end when I describe my method, I think I will need to explain and justify what types/brands of makeup I will be using in my study. I still need to find what type/brands of makeup I am going to use, but I don't know the basis upon which I should choose them. For the type of makeup (e.g. foundation, mascara, eyeshadow), I will probably be able to justify the choice based on practicality (e.g. different skin tones require different foundations while mascara is a more universal product, so I will test mascara in my study). For choosing brands, I think it will be more challenging. I could go based off of popularity, but just based on market share, most of the top brands are just drugstore (probably because the stats account for all socioeconomic statuses), which all contain chemical additives for the most part. The only other ideas I had were to choose a natural brand like BareEscentuals/bareMinerals because the brand name indicates that it is a natural product, and then choose an unnatural makeup brand in similar price or perceived quality range (perhaps something like MAC or Clinique). There are also a few natural drugstore makeup brands that I could put up against unnatural drugstore makeups. Any advice would be appreciated!! 

    (1,156)


    Saturday, September 10, 2016

    The Gap in the Conversation

    Week 5 (09/05-09/11)

    It's been a fun week in AP Research recking John Oliver's "argument" against charter schools. I'm excited to make the official competition video at the beginning of next week. :)

    Although class this week has been devoted to dissecting the Oliver video, we have all still been working on the sidelines to gather sources and piece our academic conversations together. In order to demonstrate how my specific subtopics are coming together to form a gap, I'm going to put several pivotal authors in the same room and allow them to "converse":

    Cast:

    1. Margit Lai Wun Juhász and Ellen S. Marmur from the Department of Dermatology at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai and New York

    2. Anne Marie Todd, a professor of Communication Studies at San Jose State University who teaches courses in environmental communication

    3. Diana Crane, PhD in Sociology at the University of Pennsylvania

    4. Maison, Greenwald, and Bruin, Psychology professor at the University of Warsaw, professor of Social Psychology at the University of Washington, and manager of a medical data group respectively


    Setting: All 7 authors sit at a round table at one of those pretentious parties where smart people come together and discuss academic issues


    Script:


    Todd: Cosmetic companies have been promoting the quality effects of natural ingredients in their products since the environmental movements of the early 2000s. It's a pretty smart move - this way, the companies do not only appeal more to environmentally conscious consumers, but they also attract consumers who could care less about the environment and simply want a quality product.

    Juhasz and Marmur: Interesting...in general, consumers have also been pushed toward natural cosmetic products because of some misleading health studies attacking chemical additives in unnatural makeups. Cancer foundations and health administrations have released warnings concerning ingredients such as parabens, lead, and formaldehyde in cosmetics when, in actuality, agencies like the FDA, CDC, and CIR have all found the additives to produce no negative health effects in the small quantities found in makeup products.

    Todd: So consumers have been mislead about lead? How lucky for the natural makeup companies. They have been able to reel in consumers with environmental concerns, those with personal health concerns, and those with merely product quality concerns.

    Crane: I see your point Todd, but it's likely that the natural makeup companies are benefitting primarily only from the latter two types of consumers you mentioned. My studies have shown that consumers buy natural and organic products primarily for the perceived personal benefits, usually related to health.

    Juhasz and Marmur: If that is the case in the makeup industry, consumers are splurging on natural products for illogical reasons.

    Todd: There is also some debate as to whether or not the natural makeup companies are exaggerating the quality effects of their ingredients. For example, the CEO of Bare Escentuals claims that natural makeup has less tendency to become cakey and dry out one's complexion, but, with the larger variety and manipulability of unnatural makeup ingredients, there is a large range of makeup textures that can be achieved.

    Crane: So...consumers are psychologically drawn to the phrase "natural" because of perceived health benefits and greater effectiveness, but these things may not be true?

    [Todd, Juhasz, and Marmur nod]

    Maison, Greenwald, and Bruin: It would be interesting to see how consumers of natural makeup products judged different makeup brands during blind consumption, or, using the makeup without knowing what brand it is. Consumers choose different brands based off of either emotional distinctions or actual sensual distinctions. Emotional distinctions involve choosing brands because of what consumers believe about the product, which would align with consumers choosing makeup because of perceived, but false, health and quality superiority. Sensual distinctions involve choosing brands based off of quality differences actually felt during consumption, which would be the case if consumers were choosing natural makeup because of actual noticed quality superiority. If consumers have difficulty distinguishing between brands during blind consumption, or favor a different brand than their identified favorite brand, it is likely that they have made emotional distinctions between brands, as opposed to actual sensual ones. Through blind testing, we can answer your questions about the makeup industry by determining whether consumers actually detect superior quality in natural makeups.

    Everyone else [in unison]: Brilliant! If only we had someone to do that....

    Maison, Greenwald, and Bruin: We already have the girl for the task.

    (732)



    Friday, September 2, 2016

    Piecing the Picture Together

    Week 4 (08/29-09/04)

    With August now behind us (where did all the time go?!), we are continuing to piece together our lit reviews, both through finding relevant sources and becoming familiar with the current academic conversation surrounding our topics. Throughout this week in class, we honed in on what exactly we need to accomplish in our lit reviews - we need to provide historical context, significance, information on the current agreements and disagreements in the field, and hone in on a specific gap that our research question will hope to fill.

    For me specifically, I will need to contextualize for the reader the rise in popularity of natural cosmetics through green consumerism and the release of flawed health studies that criticized unnatural makeup. Society's move toward being more environmentally minded in the late 1990s and early 2000s led to companies being pressured to use natural/organic ingredients less harmful to the environment, and this in turn led to a change in advertising that promoted the effectiveness or high quality aspects of natural ingredients to attract both environmentally conscious and non-environmentally conscious consumers. Flawed health studies criticizing certain chemical additives in unnatural makeup have also turned consumers towards natural products, even though the FDA, CDC, and CIR have found that unnatural cosmetics have negligible health effects. Nevertheless, companies producing natural products still use the fears of cancer and health detriments to steer consumers away from other brands.

    Thus, the significance of studying how marketing natural makeup affects consumers lies in that the recent increase in sales of natural makeup have happened alongside of misleading information, coming in the form of exaggerating both the effectiveness of natural ingredients and the harmfulness of unnatural ones. Without the marketing, would consumers make different choices?

    As far as the current academic conversation, most of the debate lies in how consumers are currently making decisions in the cosmetic industry. The most pivotal source I found this week, authored by Diana Crane, evaluated green/responsible consumerism (the theory that consumers partially base their choices on whether or not products will hurt the environment/society) and tried to determine whether consumers make ethical consumption decisions for themselves or for the greater good. She found that consumers make decisions not based on the supposed ethical ramifications of their actions, but instead based on two main factors - societal norms/fads (i.e. what is fashionable) and personal fulfillment (i.e. the idea that the product will benefit them). For example, in her study, consumers primarily bought organic food products not because of the environmental benefits associated with organic food production, but because they believed these products were beneficial for their own health. Applying her study to the cosmetic industry, consumers could very well be buying natural makeup either because they believe it is beneficial for their health or because it is a societal fad to do so, given the history of criticizing unnatural makeup. However, (and my goal is to explore sources on this side of the debate next) some believe that natural makeup brands are actually higher quality than unnatural brands. This presents the main gap in the field that I am hoping to solve: Without marketing describing makeup as "natural," a word that has come to, perhaps falsely, characterize products as healthy or high quality, would consumers still choose natural makeup products over unnatural ones?

    Next week, I hope to continue to find sources on consumer theory and sources that aim to either preach or refute the higher quality of natural makeup products. With each source that I read, I am gaining a clearer picture of how I am going to build my argument and set up my research question. :)

    (605)


    Friday, August 26, 2016

    The Breakdown (of my topic, not talking about me...at least not yet)

    Week 3 (08/22-08/28)

    The daunting task of writing the infamous lit review lies ahead, but with Ms. Haag's support and guidance this week (along with her insane PowerPoint), I have become more assured that it's quite doable when carefully thought out.

    Now we are all dividing our topics into subtopics to help organize our thoughts and form a rudimentary road map for the lit review. The subtopics I have chosen are natural makeup, unnatural makeup, health studies, makeup ingredients, green consumerism, consumer demand (for cosmetics specifically), cosmetic marketing, and branding cosmetics.

    The contrast between the subtopics health studies and green consumerism is important for showing the context behind and significance of researching consumer preference for natural cosmetics and whether or not this preference is warranted. The difference between natural and unnatural makeup will also have to be clearly defined for the reader, including the different ingredients in both products and the resulting differences in quality/effectiveness (e.g. shelf life, how well it stays on the face, whether or not it causes breakouts). To formulate my hypothesis, I will need to compare such differences with the current consumer demand (i.e. besides the growing preference for natural ingredients, what qualities do they value most in their makeup?) to see which they should "ideally" prefer. Since branding plays a key role in swaying consumer opinion, and one of my test groups will include the brand names on the products, it is also important to research the effects of makeup brand names on consumer choice/thought in order to make my hypothesis even more accurate.

    As far as interesting breakthroughs this week, I have found two foundational academic journal articles that detail health research on the chemicals in unnatural makeup. Both articles compile many studies by the CDC, FDA, and CIR to demonstrate that the concentrations of chemical additives in cosmetics do not cause any noticeable health defects. Next week, I plan to start reading more on green consumerism and marketing, that is, how both of them have affected consumer thinking and their preference for natural vs. unnatural products.

    I know that I have a lot to accomplish in the coming weeks. If I've noticed anything, it's that a lot of thought goes into building the framework for the lit review and finding the perfect sources for it. However, I am confident that my seminar skills will go a long way, and I am actually excited to take up the challenge and learn more about cosmetic marketing along the way. :)

    (412)

    Saturday, August 20, 2016

    Narrowing the Focus

    Week 2 (08/15-08/21)

    One of the most valuable lessons I learned in AP Seminar is the importance of going into research with an open mind, and, once again, my original perspective on a topic has been challenged.

    As an active consumer of cosmetic products, I have always been bombarded by the ideas that natural products are better than synthetic ones and that chemical additives are, well, "evil." My esthetician religiously preaches the use of products "without chemical fillers," and my older cousin Erika has become so paranoid about the potential health detriments posed by synthetic ingredients that she is moving toward making all her makeup and personal care products from scratch at home. Until now, I too have always thought that "natural" meant healthier and higher quality.

    Nevertheless, after researching and expecting to find articles on harms of drug store makeup brands, I have found that the fear of chemical additives is actually quite unwarranted. While many companies use minute concentrations of chemical additives to enhance the quality or functionality of their products, scientific testing by the FDA and other organizations has shown that such small quantities have no adverse health effects. The bad rap the industry receives is based on testing of these chemical additives in much larger quantities in animal studies, studies which shouldn't even be relevant to cosmetic products.

    Consumers, however, have been increasingly drawn toward "natural" makeup products, and an increasing number of companies are focusing on creating and marketing natural cosmetics. As part of a larger "green consumer" societal movement, people generally buy "natural" or "organic" under the premise that such products are better for their personal health, the environment, and are higher quality.

    The apparent contradiction between consumer beliefs and scientific reality was what ultimately led me to narrow down my focus. I'm going to explore whether or not, with marketing ploys removed, consumers still prefer natural cosmetics over synthetic ones. Such research will be valuable because it will help determine whether consumers actually prefer natural products (in terms of quality), or whether they are simply succumbing to marketing ploys or societal pressures.

    Although conducting my own research is still far off, I have brainstormed some compelling ideas this week. Currently, I see myself gathering different brands of makeup, a couple high-end that take pride in being "all natural" (e.g Jane Iredale and bareMinerals), a couple high-end brands that use chemical additives (e.g. Clinique, Dior, and M.A.C.), and some drug store brands that also contain chemical additives (e.g. Maybelline and Covergirl). I would create a test group and apply each type of makeup to participants, asking which sample they like the best. All samples would be stripped of branding, and participants would not know whether each makeup is natural or unnatural, so the results would determine whether consumers actually detect superior quality in natural makeup, or whether they simply buy natural makeup because they feel pressured to do so.

    Obviously, my topic is still too broad in that I have no clue what specific type of makeup I am going to study (e.g. foundation, eyeshadow, etc.). Also, I may have to choose a specific type of "natural" marketing to include in my study (e.g. choosing to explore the effects of negative attacks on unnatural makeup to promote natural makeup as opposed to looking into the effects of pushing the positives of natural makeup, or vice versa). As far as continuing the refining process, I think that the process will happen naturally as I continue reading, compiling sources for my annotated bibliography, and gaining a clearer picture of my own research method.

    Speaking of continuing to compile sources, there are a few main areas I should focus on. First, I need to make sure I have enough sources justifying that unnatural makeup is not harmful to health and that the chemical composition of it may actually be superior to natural makeup in some cases. These sources, when combined with articles that articulate the green consumer movement in the cosmetic industry, will show the contrast that makes looking into the issue interesting and significant. To set the stage for my own research, it would also be helpful to find data on what brands of makeup consumers are actually buying. Comparing the numbers of people who buy each brand in reality with the data I collect in my study will determine whether or not consumers are being significantly swayed by the marketing. Through continuing to find sources, I'm hoping to narrow down the brands and type(s) of makeup I will use in my study. Also, if I find that there is a specific marketing strategy common to multiple types of "natural" makeup companies or particularly prominent in the green consumer movement, I may focus in on that for my research.

    Ending on an enthusiastic and less technical note, I am super excited to continue exploring cosmetic marketing! The thought of my personal study already has me itching to find out the results. :)

    (824...sorry, I just got super into this post)




    Friday, August 12, 2016

    The AP Research Journey Begins!

    Week 1 (08/08-08/14)

    Well, it's senior year and I must say I'm super excited to dive into AP Research!

    I came into the class with the specific goal of using my research to explore my intended major, Chemical Engineering, which involves applying chemical principles to manufacturable products so that they can be more easily produced and satisfy consumer demands. However, being new to the field of engineering, I found that it might be fun and valuable for me to apply chemistry to a product that I am familiar with. So, lo and behold, I have decided to research the chemistry behind cosmetics, which I have cherished since 7th grade, when my older cousin Erika sold me a bareMinerals starter kit and taught me how to do my own makeup.

    Something that has always concerned me, and something that is currently a growing issue in the cosmetic industry, is the desire for natural minerals (as opposed to harmful chemicals) to be incorporated into makeup products. After doing some preliminary research, I have found that both consumer demand and government regulation are driving cosmetic companies to pursue "all natural" or "organic" products. I intend to explore this trend through sociological, economic, and medical lenses in order to see how consumer preference affects cosmetic markets, how companies integrate natural ingredients (especially since most of them involve higher costs), and how "natural" products actually affect consumer health. (I put natural in quotes because sometimes producer claims can be misleading. For example, bareMinerals still contains unnatural fillers in their foundations).

    Going forward, I will try to narrow down my topic focus to a specific product (I am currently playing with the idea of researching foundation to explore the effects unnatural fillers and chemicals, or lack thereof in higher-end, boutique products like Jane Iredale). I think that going through the lenses and looking up more articles on EBSCO and JSTOR will help me find currently pressing issues (or products that are currently causing the most concern). Eventually, I hope to have a specific product so that I can start exploring the chemistry behind natural and artificial branches of it, how it affects consumer health, and how companies can act going forward to improve products in a cost effective manner.

    Also noteworthy, at the very end of the week, I discovered that I have a direct contact to Jane Iredale, the founder and head of a company that produces 100% natural makeup products. I will reach out to her in the coming week to see what the company is currently pursuing and whether or not I can get directly involved with them when conducting my research.

    (436)